The most common stubborn stains – and what you should know about them in advance
Stain removal is most effective when you know what to expect. Some stains look “scary” from the moment they appear, while others are a bit sneaky – only revealing themselves after the wash.
Let’s take a look at the ones you’re most likely to come across – and what to watch out for right from the start.
Beetroot stains can be tricky because of their strong colouring power – so quick action is a must.
Start by rinsing the stain with cold water to stop it from setting into the fabric. Then apply some liquid detergent or a mixture of lemon juice and water, and leave it to work for 10–15 minutes.
For more stubborn stains, soak the garment in water mixed with an oxygen-based stain remover. After soaking, wash it at the temperature recommended for the fabric.
On white fabrics, lemon juice or a little hydrogen peroxide can help lift the stain completely – just be sure to test it first on a hidden area to avoid any unwanted damage.
Always start with cold water – and the sooner you act, the better!!!!
Blood stains are a classic protein-based problem – and the golden rule is: never use hot water!
Hot water will literally “cook” the blood into the fibres, making it far harder to remove.
Soak the garment in cold water first, then gently rub the stained area. Next, apply an enzymatic detergent or a stain-removing soap and leave it to work for 15–30 minutes. If the stain is stubborn, you can also try a paste made from bicarbonate of soda and water, then rinse thoroughly.
For white fabrics, hydrogen peroxide or bleaching salt (sodium percarbonate) can be very effective – just remember to do a patch test in an inconspicuous area first.
To remove candle wax stains, the first step is to harden the wax. Pop the garment in the freezer or rub an ice cube over the stained area. Once the wax has solidified, gently scrape it off with a blunt knife.
Next, place a paper towel or some blotting paper both underneath and on top of the stain, then press with a warm iron. The heat will melt the remaining wax, which will be absorbed into the paper.
If the wax is coloured, treat the area with a suitable stain remover or a little alcohol (depending on the fabric type), and then wash the garment as normal.
Chewing gum can stick to shoes, clothes, and even hair – and it’s notoriously hard to get rid of.
It’s much easier to remove when cold, because warmth only makes it cling more stubbornly to the fabric.
The best trick is to freeze it first: either place the garment in a freezer bag for a few hours or rub ice directly on the gum. Once it hardens, carefully scrape it off with a dull knife or spoon.
If residue remains, rub a little cooking oil or vinegar onto the stained area to loosen it, then wipe clean. Finally, wash the garment as usual – if you used oil, make sure to apply a degreasing detergent to fully remove it.
Cocoa stains can be tricky because of their protein and fat content, so quick action is key.
First, rinse the stained area under cold water to stop it from setting into the fabric. Next, apply some liquid laundry detergent or a mild, grease-cutting washing-up liquid and leave it to work for 10–15 minutes.
If the stain is still visible, soak the garment in lukewarm water with either a little baking soda or an oxygen-based stain remover. Then wash the garment as usual at the temperature recommended for the fabric.
For white fabrics, a splash of lemon juice or a little hydrogen peroxide can also help lighten the stain – but always test on a hidden area first.
Coffee and tea are among the most common culprits for stains, especially on light fabrics.
Because these drinks are rich in tannins, they can quickly seep into the fibres – and once dried, they’re much harder to shift.
For the best chance of success, rinse the stain under cold water straight away to stop it from setting. With fresh stains, this alone is often enough. If the mark is more stubborn, gently rub in a little liquid detergent or dab with diluted vinegar, then leave it to work for 15–30 minutes.
Afterwards, rinse thoroughly and wash the garment as usual. On white fabrics, you can brighten the area with a touch of lemon juice, hydrogen peroxide, or bleaching salt (sodium percarbonate) – but always test on a hidden area first.
Cola can leave behind sticky stains if not treated quickly, as the sugar, colouring and acids easily mark fabric.
Act fast by rinsing the stain under cold water straight away. Next, rub in a little liquid detergent and leave it to work for 15–20 minutes.
Rinse thoroughly, then wash the garment at the temperature recommended on the care label. If the mark remains, soak the fabric in a solution of baking soda and water or use an oxygen-based stain remover.
On white clothes, a splash of lemon juice can also help to brighten the fabric – but always test on an inconspicuous area first.
Deodorant stains – especially those from antiperspirants containing aluminium salts – can leave stubborn marks on clothing.
To tackle them, make a paste using bicarbonate of soda and water, gently rub it into the stain, and leave it to sit for around 30 minutes. Then rinse thoroughly and wash the garment as usual.
Alternatively, you can soak the item in a mixture of vinegar and water – this helps to break down the build-up and lift the stain.
Oxygen-based bleaches can also work well on white fabrics, but always check the care label and do a patch test on a hidden area first, just to be safe.
Grass stains can be a real challenge, as the natural green pigment (chlorophyll) in grass easily seeps into fabric fibres – especially on light-coloured clothes. The pigments cling stubbornly to the material, and if you’ve got children, you’ll know how common these stains can be. That’s why it’s always good to have a reliable method ready!
The most important thing? Act quickly!
Start by rinsing the garment with cold water to remove any fresh dirt. Next, rub a bit of liquid detergent or stain-removing soap directly into the stain and let it sit for 15–30 minutes.
If the stain proves stubborn, try applying a mixture of vinegar and water (in a 1:1 ratio) or use an oxygen-based stain remover. After that, wash the item at the temperature recommended on the care label.
For white fabrics, a little hydrogen peroxide or oxygen bleach (like sodium percarbonate) can also help – but always test it first on a hidden area of the fabric to be safe.
Baking, cooking, eating – and before you know it, there’s a grease mark.
These stains repel water, so a normal wash often won’t do the trick. It’s best to start with a degreaser or a bit of washing-up liquid.
When it comes to removing grease or oil stains, quick action makes all the difference – they set into the fabric very quickly. First, blot up as much as you can with a paper towel or clean cloth, but don’t rub. Then sprinkle bicarbonate of soda, baking powder or even a little cornflour over the area to absorb the excess oil. Leave it for at least 15 minutes, then gently brush it off.
Next, rub in a small amount of liquid detergent or a degreasing product, leave it to work, then rinse and wash the garment as usual. If needed, you can repeat the process until the stain disappears completely. For tougher, older stains, a proper degreaser may be your best option – just check the fabric care label first.
Hair dye stains can be tricky to deal with, as the colour sinks deep into the fabric fibres. The sooner you act, the better your chances of success.
Start by rinsing the stain with cold water, then gently rub in some liquid detergent or a grease-cutting washing-up liquid. For more stubborn marks, you can try alcohol, hydrogen peroxide, or a stain remover solution – but always test on a hidden area first.
Leave the product to work for 10–15 minutes, then rinse thoroughly and wash the garment at the temperature recommended on the care label.
Be extra careful with coloured fabrics – stronger chemicals may cause fading or bleaching.
Ink stain ballpoint pen stain and felt tip
Parents of school-aged children face a familiar challenge – ink spreads quickly through fabric. Alcohol-based and water-based ink behave differently, so it doesn’t matter how you approach it. You shouldn’t rub, you should soak it.
Removing ink and felt-tip stains is a difficult task, as they are deeply embedded in the fibers of the fabric. The key is speed: first blot the fresh stain with a paper towel, being careful not to rub it, as this will spread it further. Then apply an alcohol-based cleaner, isopropyl alcohol or hairspray to the stain and let it sit for a few minutes, then blot it again. After that, rinse with cold water and wash the garment as usual. For more stubborn stains, you can also use a special stain remover for synthetic fabrics, but always test it on a less visible area.
Iodine stains need special care, as they’re very strong and can cling firmly to fabric.
First, blot up any excess – but don’t rub, as this will only spread the stain. Next, soak the garment in cold water, then treat the area with either alcohol or a stain remover containing sodium thiosulfate (you can usually find this at the pharmacy).
A handy home remedy is to use a starch paste: simply mix starch with a little water into a thick paste, spread it over the stain, leave it to dry, then brush it off.
Finally, wash the garment as usual. For white fabrics, hydrogen peroxide or oxygen bleach (such as sodium percarbonate) can also be effective – but always test on a hidden area first to avoid damage.
Make-up stains – whether from foundation, lipstick or powder – are often oil- or pigment-based, which means they need a bit of extra care.
Start by gently blotting away any excess – avoid rubbing, as that only drives the product deeper into the fabric. Next, dab on a small amount of liquid washing-up liquid or even a gentle make-up remover, and work it in lightly with your fingertips or a soft brush. Leave it for 10–15 minutes, then rinse with cold water and wash the garment as usual.
For white fabrics, a paste of bicarbonate of soda, an oxygen-based stain remover, or bleaching salt (sodium percarbonate) can help lift the stain completely – but always do a patch test first.
Mold stains should be treated as quickly as possible, because mold spores can penetrate deep into the fabric, leaving both odor and discoloration.
First, take the garment outdoors and brush off the dry mold – this prevents spores from spreading inside the home. Then soak the garment in vinegar water (1 part vinegar, 2 parts water) or in a warm solution of sodium percarbonate (oxygen-based bleach). Leave it for 1–2 hours, then wash the garment at the highest temperature safe for the fabric.
Drying the garment in direct sunlight helps further kill mold and remove odors. For stubborn stains, the process can be repeated.
Machine oil stains can be tough on fabric fibres, so it’s important to act quickly.
Start by blotting up any excess oil with a paper towel. Then sprinkle bicarbonate of soda, cornflour, or starch over the stain to help absorb the remaining oil – leave it for at least 15–30 minutes before brushing it off.
Next, apply a degreasing detergent or scrubbing soap to the area, rub it in well, and let it sit for a while to do its job.
Finally, wash the garment at a high temperature – as high as the care label allows for the fabric.
For more stubborn stains, a stain pre-treater or a specialist solvent may do the trick, but always test it first on a hidden part of the fabric to avoid any damage.
To remove a playdough stain, it’s best to start by freezing it. Pop the garment into a bag and leave it in the freezer for a couple of hours, or rub the area with an ice cube to harden the playdough. Once firm, gently scrape it off with a blunt knife.
If any coloured stain or greasy mark remains, apply some liquid washing-up liquid or a grease remover, leave it to work for 15–20 minutes, then rinse thoroughly and wash the garment as normal.
For more stubborn marks, a simple paste of bicarbonate of soda and water can also help lift out the dye.
Fabric softener stains usually appear when the liquid touches the fabric in concentrated form – for example, if it is poured directly onto clothes or not properly diluted during washing.
To remove the stain, start by rinsing the garment with cold water. Rub in a little liquid detergent or dab with a solution of water and vinegar, then leave it to work for 15–20 minutes. Rinse thoroughly, then wash the garment again as usual.
If the mark persists, make a paste of baking soda and water, gently rub it into the affected area, and rinse well before the next wash.
Rust stains have a metallic, brownish look and often show up around old taps, radiators, or hangers.
Because rust is insoluble in water, it won’t come out with ordinary washing – it needs special treatment.
The key is to use an acidic solution. Mix equal parts lemon juice and salt, apply to the stain, and leave it for 15–30 minutes. If possible, place the garment in sunlight during this time, as warmth helps the reaction. Then rinse thoroughly and wash as usual.
For stubborn marks, a commercial rust remover can be very effective – but always read the garment’s care label first and test on a hidden area. On white clothes, the simple lemon-and-salt method often works especially well.
Sweat can leave yellowish stains around the armpits, especially on white T-shirts. This happens when the salts in sweat react with the aluminium salts in deodorant, mixing with your skin and creating discolouration. Left untreated, the stains can work their way deep into the fabric over time.
To tackle sweat stains, make a simple paste from bicarbonate of soda and water, apply it to the stain and leave it for about 30 minutes. Gently rub it in, then rinse with cold water.
For more stubborn marks, try a mixture of vinegar and water (in a 1:1 ratio) or use an oxygen-based stain remover. After treatment, wash the garment as usual, following the care label.
On white clothes, a little lemon juice can also help to brighten the fabric and lighten the stain. Do keep in mind, though, that older stains are much harder to remove effectively.
Vomit stain, urine stain, stool stain
When it comes to removing vomit, urine or faeces stains, the most important things are speed and hygienic handling.
First, remove any solids while wearing gloves, then rinse the garment with cold water – never hot, as heat can set proteins into the fabric.
Next, soak the item in a mixture of water and a mild disinfectant or vinegar for about 30 minutes. Gently rub the stained area with a general laundry detergent, then wash at a high temperature, according to the fabric type. For baby clothes or more delicate fabrics, use a gentle detergent with disinfecting properties.
Finally, let the garment dry in fresh air – ideally in sunlight – which will further help remove both odours and bacteria.
Red wine, cherries, blueberries and raspberries can all leave behind vivid stains. These pigments are quick to set into fabric – especially if they’re left to dry – so acting fast is key.
When it comes to wine and fruit stains, speed really matters. The natural dyes they contain can soak into the fibres surprisingly quickly. Start by blotting up as much as you can with a clean cloth or paper towel – but don’t rub, as that can make it worse.
Next, sprinkle some salt or bicarbonate of soda over the stain – this helps absorb both moisture and colour. After a short while, rinse with cold water, then soak the fabric in a mix of lemon juice and water, or vinegar and water.
Finally, wash the garment using a stain remover, following the care label’s recommended temperature. For white clothing, a little hydrogen peroxide or oxygen bleach (like sodium percarbonate) can help lift the last traces of the stain.